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 The Association of Golf Clubfitting Professionals. |
A Major Success |
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The Association of Golf Clubfitting Professionals. |
A Major Success |
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Shop Talk is a mailing list discussion group on topics
relating to the craft of custom clubmaking and golf club repair.
Exchange clubmaking tips and questions with your fellow clubmakers
or sell your used clubmaking equipment. ShopTalk members will
also be notified of companies offering preferred customer discounts.
By subscribing to ShopTalk you receive messages daily when
they are posted to the list.
By subscribing to ShopTalk-Digest you receive a digest
version of all questions/answers every four or five days which
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Instructions on how to Subscribe/Unsubscribe
to ShopTalk or ShopTalk-Digest
ATTENTION EGROUPS Shoptalk Subscribers
Here's the new address for the archives http://groups.yahoo.com/group/shoptalk.
I've had some problems with the Yahoo list and suggest subscribing
to either the digest or the regular shoptalk list.
You can't post messages if you're an archive/yahoo member, only
if you subscribe to the regular list.
Email me if you
need help subscribing to the regular list to post questions to
the group.
The Clubmaker Report is a report that will include press releases, news and information about clubmaking products and golf equipment. I also hope to be able to get companies to offer discounts to readers of The Clubmaker Report. It will be more commercially oriented than Shoptalk but should be very informative and help you in your component purchasing decisions and should give you the opportunity to stay ahead of the competition.
| Subscribe to The Clubmaker Report |
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Questions and answers will be archived on this page for future
reference. Each page has about 15 questions. The Digest will be
archived at ShopTalk Digest
Archives.
Return to Clubhouse
Shoptalk Archives | 1 | 2
| 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
How do Ultralites affect
Swingweight?
I love my 7 iron, why can't I make
all my clubs the same length?
Where can I find left-handed components?
How can I shine ferrules without acetone?
Removing Dried Epoxy.
Tip to insure consistent grip lengths
on each club.
True Temper Memphis 10 Shaft specs
on a Callaway Driver. Uniflex?
What's the best way to remove a graphite
shaft from a metalwood head?
How does lie affect shot direction?
How can I prevent "ferrule creep"
on iron graphite shafts?
How does lead tape affect center of
gravity?
How do I fill the gap if the ferrule
doesn't fully seat with the hosel after the epoxy dries?
What are the standard lofts for irons?
Is dimpling steel shafts worthwhile?
Make a homemade shaft dimpler.
How can I estimate swingweight without
a swingweight scale?
Does shaft flex affect shot direction?
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 11:04:50 -0800
From: Tim Janzer <tim.janzer@MNSi.Net>
Organization: Leamington High Tech Systems Inc.
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: Shaft lengths/Swingweight
Question:
I remember a couple of years back about a set of clubs made by
??? in
which the irons all had the same shaft length. I feel most comfortable
and
confident with my 7 iron. Would shaft length have anything to
do with it
and/or if all my irons had the same shaft length would it be of
benefit or
not.
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 23:35:23 -0500
From: miko <miko@julian.uwo.ca>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: 'primo' 7 iron ?
X-URL: http://ww1.msen.com/~jhm/
Thanks to PCS Class A Clubmaker Dave Miko for the following
answer:
1) Given the typical weights of a set of clubheads, the less lofted
clubs will be VERY light, (and swingweight light), and the lofted
clubs
will be very heavy, (and swingweight heavy). So the 'feeling'
of the
rest of the clubs will not be the same as the 'PRIMO' 7 iron.
2) If you could get all the club heads to be similar in weight,
you
might find that the "long" irons aren't very long at
all, and the short
irons are too long,...time for the 75 degree wedge for those <50
flops... :{)
3) If your really interested...there's a company here in Canada
called
SyncSync. their 'matching system' involves matching all the clubs
to the
same moment of inertia, (in this case, the PRIMO 7 iron); AND,
match the
frequency of the assembled club...
another option:
In The Physics of Golf, ISBN 0-88318-955-0, Theodore Jorgensen
proposes
that the perfectly match set of golf clubs would:
1) All WEIGH the same;
2) All SWINGWEIGHT the same, (with the swt fulcrum being under
the RIGHT
wrist, (about 8" from the butt end of the club)); AND
3) ALL have the same moment of inertia about the same fulcrum
as the
swingweight, (about 8" from the butt end of the club...).
NB-no comment abouot FLEX...
Best I can do...
db miko
Mac Shack Golf
PCS-Class A Clubmaker <-<-<-<-<-<- NEW!
London, Ontario, CANADA
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 12:34:36 -0500
From: name <M999628@students.admin.uottawa.ca>
Organization: Fac Admin Univ Ottawa
Mime-Version: 1.0
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: Starting a repair business!
I am interested in starting a repair business and could use any
and all
information about starting such a venture.
* Marketing info * resource/reference material for doing repairs
* good suppliers of components * Pricing Strategy * Start up cost
info
* Basic equipment to start.
Thank you in advance for your help!
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 1996 22:59:01 -0600
From: Jim Morrison <morey@mo.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: Wanted
X-URL: http://clubmaker-online.com/index.html#anchor94426
I'm looking for a mallet putter head componant that is
holed so that it will
fit a ball to allow the golfer to take the ball out of the cup.
Jim Morrison
morey@mo.net.com
From: lchilco@uswest.com
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 96 10:45:50 MST
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: club-makers comments
I think you have something with this web. I am a beginner at club
making. It's a lot of fun, but I have lots of questions. What
are the
chances of having a HELP parameter on the page so that folks like
me
can ask questions? I don't know what the overall weight of a set
of
irons should look like. Should the 3 be the lightest and the wedge
the
heaviest? How much affect does appoxy have on swing-weight? Stuff
like
that.
tnx
Lance
Looking for a source of left-handed
components?
Dial 1-800-LEFTIES for a supplier of left handed components.
This supplier is in Vermont and have been dedicated to supplying
left handed components and clubs for many years.
Tim D. (dunnigan@plh.af.mil)
The Clubmaker Online Component Catalog will also carry left-handed
Harvey Penick components.
Golfsmith and Dynacraft also carry a large selection of left-handed
irons and woods.
jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Removing Epoxy from Hosels
Shiny Ferrules Without Acetone
From: DGolffore@aol.com
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 19:33:22 -0500
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Need some pointers
I use a hosel honing brush (Golfsmith #750 or 750W) to remove
epoxy from
hosels. It's a tough, carbide tipped brush that will last for
about 30
heads. After its worn out, I coat the brush with epoxy and dip
it in
aluminum oxide. Once it dries I can use it on another 10 or 12
heads and
then recoat for a few more heads. It eventually wears out completely,
but at
$10.50 a brush the few extra times makes it cost effective.
Acetone - What a safety and health hazard! I rarely use it because
a shiny
10 cent ferrule is not worth my health. Instead of acetone, turn
the ferrule
down, sipe vigorously with 0000 steel wool, then buff with Semi-chrome
polish
(blue-away) with a soft LINEN cloth. Then buff lightly with a
piece of ole
t-shirt. It take a few minutes longer that acetone, but it eliminates
the
hazards associated with acetone and looks just as good.
Dana Upshaw
PCS Class A Clubmaker and Member of the Board of Directors.
Consistent Grip Length
From: phillion@cris.com
X-Sent-To: <jhm@clubmaker-online.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 96 22:36:08 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: jhm@clubmaker-online.com
Subject: Finding a Consistent Length to Stretch Your Grips During
Installation
In order to be very consistant with your gripping process, I have
found
an easy way to insure all grips are stretched to the factory given
length. First, hold a grip along the side of the shaft - lining
up the
butt ends of the shaft and grip in order to establish a common
base
point. Next, place the rubbber shaft holder (or whatever you may
be
using) onto the shaft and slide it down until it reaches the leading
end
of the grip. Place it into your vise and install the grip as normal
until the leading edge touches the shaft holder. Every club will
be
gripped with consistency for cosmetic and playability reasons.
Our company is Tour-Fit Custom Clubs, Inc. and we've been custom
fitting
customers for over 10 years. We are located in Saginaw, Michigan
and are
willing to discuss any clubmaking tips with other clubmakers.
Shaft Specs on True Temper Memphis
10 "Uniflex"
>I recently picked up a used Callaway S2H2 driver (10.5 degrees,
deep face,
>relatively small head). It has a Memphis 10 shaft from True
Temper that I'm
>curious about. I contacted the company at their web site and
they said the
>shaft is a "Uniflex", between a regular and a firm
that can act like either.
> If you swing hard, it's a stiff. If you swing soft, it's
a regular. Is
>this possible? I'm curious about how it compares to other
T.T. shafts. I
>play a TT Lite stiff in my irons and a S100 on a 13 degree
tour spoon.
>Your input would be appreciated.
>Eric
>Eric.Nelson@WellsFargo.com
>
>
>Eric:
According to test results published by Golfsmith on 1995 OEM proprietary
shafts,
the Memphis 10 shaft, on a Big Bertha 43 1/2-inch driver, has
a 260 cpm
frequency This leads me to believe that the
shaft, at least in this particular configuration, is relatively
stiff. The TT
Lite stiff flex also is recommended for driver swing speeds of
90-100 mph.
Regards,
Peter Hopkins
What's the best way to remove a
graphite shaft from a metal wood head?
>How do you suggest trimming (cutting) a graphite shaft to
the correct
>length - tubeing cutter or hacksaw?
>--
>John A. Raletz
>johnral@kc.grapevine.com
#1. Get yourself a good heat gun. Heat the head at the hosel being
careful
not to heat the shaft. Exert straight pressure to pull the head
off the
shaft - no twisting.
Never cut a graphite with a tubing cutter. The shaft will splinter
and
break the bonds on the fibers. Only use a hacksaw with masking
tape over
the area you want to cut.
Cheers - RCC Golf
Editors note: Golfsmith , Dynacraft, and Golfworks sell
a graphite shaft saver for about $50 that exerts pressure on the
head while heating and when the epoxy softens the pressure slowly
pushes the head off. You should be very careful while heating
a graphite shaft with a heat gun- keep the heat on for too long
and the shaft melts, ruining the tip, shaft and your day.
How can I prevent Ferrule Creep
on graphite iron shafts?
Speaking of ferrules, any suggestions on preventing "ferrule
creep" up
graphite shafts? I haven't had the problem with woods, but graphite
iron
shafts let ferrules crawl up the shaft due to thier slipperiness.I
don't want
to strip the gel coat off the shaft above the hosel.
Thanks to Vince Burkis for the answer:
You should at least strip to slightly below top of ferrule. Also
understand that
if you put some expoxy on the tip of the shaft BEFORE sliding
the ferrule on,
two things happen:
1. Helps eliminate ferrule creep
2. Lubricates inside of ferrule, making it just a bit easier to
get it on
How does lead tape affect center
of gravity?
> Currently I have been using the old Taylor Made Strong
>3-wood(Pittsburgh Persimmon) and have placed about 4 two inch
strips of
>lead tape on the back but on the top of the club in an effort
to raise
>the center of gravity so I can get a lower, wind-boring trajectory
and
>more roll after the ball lands. I have also done the same
thing with my
>4-wood, an old Wilson Ultra metal wood.
>
> My question is: by placing the lead weight in the rear of
the club
>instead of directly above the center of the club, have I shifted
the
>center of gravity back so far that the club will twist under,
thus
>increasing the club's effective loft?
Thanks to Lloyd Peppard for the answer:
Actually, physics says the opposite: with the weight at the rear
of the head
you have increased the moment of inertia of the club around the
vertical
plane. Thus, you have used the concept of peripheral weighting
to provide
increased resistance to twisting for off-center hits (too high
or too low).
This is the same as heel-toe weighting but in a different axis
of rotation.
(\ /) Lloyd Peppard
/ ~ \~~~ Electrical and Computer Engineering
\ O \~~~ Queen's University
/ / \~~~ Kingston, Ont. Canada
/ _ /\ ~~~~ (613) 545-6842
O_/ \ peppardl@post.queensu.ca
http://http.ee.queensu.ca:8000/www/dept/lep/le
p.html
How do I fill the gap if the ferrule
doesn't fully seat with the hosel after the epoxy dries?
>> We at Tour-Fit Custom Clubs, Inc., like many clubmakers,
have
>> experienced the problem with ferrules not being fully
seated after the epoxy
>> has fully hardened. The result is a gap between the ferrule
and the hosel.
>> We've been searching, forever it seems, for a "filler"
for this gap after
>> hardening. I don't want to use epoxy as the color does
not match the black
>> ferule. There must be a liquid plastic or something similar
to it that can
>> be used that dries relatively quickly. Anybody got any
ideas?
>
>
>Brett: A couple of thoughts.
First, I make every effort possible to ensure that the gap does
not exist prior
to installation of the head. Ferrules are very important to the
finished look of
the club as well as helping ensure a long life for the shaft.
Ferrules are
relatively cheap when compared to their overall importance. If
I have one that
doesn't seat well, it's outta here, and I put another one on.
I will sacrifice a
1/16th inch of hosel penetration in order to make sure that the
ferrule sits
correctly.
Secondly, there are black epoxies available. They are marketed
for use with
graphite shafts, but are equally usable with steel. You can use
them as your
regular epoxy or, if you encounter a gap after hardening, you
can insert some of
the epoxy into the gap with a syringe.
Regards,
Peter Hopkins
Catamount Custom Clubs
Pownal, VT
>What is the standard loft for each
club, 1-lob wedge? How does one
>decide what loft should be applied to each club? I have seen
some
>information that indicates that clubs are stronger now as
opposed to a
>few years ago.
>Should the 2 iron be 20 degrees, or 18?
>
>Thanks
Will:
Here are the standards from Ralph Maltby's book:
1 iron: 17 deg.
2 iron: 20
3 iron: 24
4 iron: 28
5 iron: 32
6 iron: 36
7 iron: 40
8 iron: 44
9 iron: 48
PW: 52
SW: 56
Traditional standard for a 5 iron was 30 deg. which would indicate
that lofts are getting weaker (more loft).
I believe the only way to determine the correct loft is to hit
balls and check your ball flight. Shaft flex also has an affect:
stiff tends to lower flight, more flexible higher flight.
How important is dimpling steel
shafts? Make a homemade dimpler.
>I've recently ordered the components for my first attempt
at building clubs.
>My question is, I have heard conflicting information on the
importance of
>dimpling steel shafts. Is it necessary? Does it provide a
noticeably
>stronger bond with the clubhead? If it makes a difference,
my first two
>clubs will be a lob wedge with a Dynamic Lite shaft and a
3 wood with a
>Rifle shaft. Thanks for your input,
Hi Mark,
>From what I've read and experienced myself, dimpling is optional
in terms of
achieving a bond. After all, graphite shafts bond with no dimpling.
What the
dimpling does do however is to make the shaft fit tight enough
that it won't
easily twist after you have aligned everything. No worries about
misalignment if you bump or move it while it is curing. I think
this is
worth the trouble. You can easily make a dimpler from a block
of wood with a
3/8 " hole drilled in the end and a 1/8 " hole drilled
at right angles about
1/4 " from the end with the larger hole. Use a punch or blank
drill bit and
hammer to dimple the shaft through the small hole.
Hope this helps and good luck with your clubs!
Lloyd
How to estimate swingweight without
a swingweight scale
Thanks to Ted Childers for this tip
I have seen a Golfsmith technical report which gives a fairly
simple way to
calculate swingweight using balance point and total clubweight
(in ounces).
All you need to do is determine the clubs balance point using
some type of
fulcrum (balancing on your finger works), measure this distance
from the
butt end of the club, subtract 14 (the fulcrum distance on a swingweight
scale) and multiply by the weight of the club.
For example: 5-iron which weighs 440g. 440g/28.33g per ounce=
15.67 oz
Balance point=27.5" from end of grip so 27.5-14 = 13.5
Take 13x15.67 = 211.55 and C5=204.75 D0=213.5 D5=222.25
As you can see, 1.75 points in this equation equals 1 swing weight
point, so
our 5-iron would swingweight at approx. C9.
This is a good way to estimate swingweight, but it requires accurate
measuring of the balance point. The best way to determine swingweight
is to
spend $80 on a swingweight scale from Golfsmith or Golfworks.
Does shaft flex affect shot direction?
I was amazed that I could get
>more distance out of the stiff shafted steel as well. Make
sure when you
>are building the clubs for someone that you measure their
swing speed. If
>the shafts are too flexible, they will open up the clubface
much prior to
>contact and result in lost distance and more slices.
>
>From my study of the dynamics of the golf club, this is not
possible. If a
shaft is too flexible, it will not unload sufficiently on the
downswing so
as to bring the clubhead square. This sounds like what you say
above but
remember that on the downswing the club actually flexes to be
in the closed
state and only squares just before impact. Thus, too flexible
a shaft will
cause low trajectory hooks, not slices. A too stiff shaft will
always be
square (imagine swinging a telephone pole) but because there is
no energy
storage in the flexing, there will be a loss in distance. So enjoy
your new
shafts but don't attribute your success to the shaft flex.
Lloyd Peppard
(\ /) Lloyd Peppard
/ ~ \~~~ Electrical and Computer Engineering
\ O \~~~ Queen's University
/ / \~~~ Kingston, Ont. Canada
/ _ /\ ~~~~ (613) 545-6842
O_/ \ peppardl@post.queensu.ca
http://http.ee.queensu.ca:8000/www/dept/lep/le
p.html
Apollo G100 Shadow S Flex woods, blanks, ready for custom
painting/logos. $5.00 each plus shipping. About 30 in stock. Cylinder
Silkscreen machine. Add custom logos to shafts. Paid $750 will
sell for $400 plus shipping. 810-220-4913. email jhm@clubmaker-online.com
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